Tutorial with Video to Make a No-Stitch Leather Belt
Creating a no-stitch leather belt is a great way to get into leatherworking without needing sewing skills. With a few simple tools and some patience, you can craft a stylish and durable belt. Follow this step-by-step tutorial to design your own unique and personalized accessory!
Watch the tutorial video on YouTube:
Materials Needed to Make a No-Stitch Leather Belt:
- Leather strap between 3 and 4 cm
- Belt buckle matching the strap width
- Chicago screws x2
- Cutter
- Revolving punch pliers or round punch tool
- Ruler
- Silver marking pen
- Loop clip
- Burnisher
- Toko cream or edge dye
- Cutting and punching board
- Acrylic templates
- Compass
- Edge beveler
- French edge beveler
- End punch tool (optional)
- Oblong hole punch (optional)
Steps to Make a Leather Belt
Step 1: Measure the Strap to the Correct Size
1. Width: Standard belt width ranges from 3 to 4 cm, but you can adjust it to your preference.
2. Leather Thickness: For this single-layer model, we recommend a thickness between 3 and 3.5 mm.
3. Measure the Length: A belt is measured from the middle hole to the end of the buckle (including the buckle).
The strap length calculation is as follows:
Waist size + 15 cm (from middle hole to belt tip) + 8-10 cm for buckle attachment (flap) - buckle length (usually 4-5 cm).
Example: For a 100 cm belt, you need a strap of:
100 cm + 15 cm (adjustment holes) + 10 cm (flap) - 5 cm (buckle) = 120 cm.
Simplified version: You can take one of your belts and compare. Don’t forget to add the return for the buckle.
4. Mark this measurement on the leather strap with a silver pencil.
Step 2: Cut the end of the belt
Neatly cut the end of the strap with a punch tool (ogive end or round end) and a mallet, or a cutter with a template or a ruler. This will be the tip of your belt, the visible front end.
Do not throw away the leftover piece; it will be useful later to make the belt loop.
Step 3: Make the adjustment holes
1. Mark the position of the adjustment holes. The first hole is located 10 cm from the tip of the belt.
The standard spacing between holes is 2.5 cm.
3. Make 5 to 7 well-centered holes for a proper fit (standard: 5 holes). We used a acrylic guide for more precision, but you can also use a ruler and a silver pencil.
4. Punch the holes using a revolving punch or a strike punch. The diameter should be between 3.5 and 4.5mm. We used the same size as for Chicago screws, 4.5 mm.
Step 4: Enchapure > Make holes for Chicago screws and buckle prong
The enchapure is the leather part that folds over itself to secure the buckle and the loop.
The first hole should be placed 2 cm from the edge, well centered, then the second 3 cm from the first one; this space will be used for the loop.
Next, at 1 cm from the last hole, make a long rounded slot to allow the buckle prong to slide freely. You can use a 26mm oblong punch, or alternatively, a round punch and a cutter.
Mirroring the first two holes, make another hole 1 cm from the slot, then a second hole 3 cm from the last one. These holes will allow the Chicago screws to secure the buckle and the loop.
This may sound complicated, but looking at the image below will make it clearer:
Step 5: Make the loop from a leather scrap
Using the leather scrap from step 2, you can make a leather loop for your belt.
Using a scratch compass and a ruler, mark the width of your loop on the leather as a guide, then cut it with a cutter and a ruler.
The standard width of a belt loop is between 13 and 15 mm.
Step 5: Make the keeper with a scrap of leather
With the leather scrap from Step 2, you can make a leather keeper for your belt.
Using a dry-point compass and a ruler, you can mark the width of your keeper on the leather to create a guide, then, using a cutter and a ruler, cut along the line.
The standard width of a keeper is between 13 and 15 mm.
Step 6: Measure the length of the keeper
Simplified Method :
Wrap the strip around the belt to measure the required length.
Add a few millimeters for slight play and mark the cutting point with a silver pencil.
Carefully cut the keeper to the correct length.
Mathematical Method :
The width of the keeper is equal to 2 times the width of the belt + 4 times the thickness of the leather.
For a belt that is 3.5 cm wide with a leather thickness of 3 mm:
3.5 cm x 2 + 0.3 cm x 4 = 8.2 cm.
Step 7: Skive the keeper
Using a skiving knife or a French edge tool, lightly skive the keeper to avoid excess thickness.
This ensures a better finish and a more discreet closure.
Step 8 (optional): Make a decorative cold line
Draw a decorative cold line with a dry-point compass. This step is optional but provides an elegant finish.
For demonstration purposes, we only did it on the keeper, but if you want a decorative line, it should be done on both the keeper and the belt for better harmony.
Step 9: Round and polish the edges
Use an edge tool to round the leather edges, which is essential for comfort when the belt contacts the skin, and also more aesthetically pleasing.
Then, sand the edges with fine sandpaper, apply cream with your finger, and finally burnish with a burnisher for a smooth, glossy finish.
We chose Toko cream for a natural finish on the edges, but you can also apply edge dye for a more luxurious finish, either toning it to match or using a different color for a two-tone effect.
This work is done on the edges of both the keeper and the belt before assembly.
Step 10: Close the keeper with a staple
Make a small hole at each end of the keeper using an awl, then close the keeper with a staple.
Step 11: Assemble the belt with the buckle, Chicago screws, and keeper
1. Slide the buckle on, placing the prong in the slot provided for it.
2. Fold the keeper and insert the first Chicago screw to lock the buckle in place.
3. Slide the leather keeper onto the end of the belt.
4. Insert the second Chicago screw to hold the keeper in place.
And that's it! Your seamless leather belt is ready!